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Cooking
School Tutorial:
Chef Desi Szonntagh's Chilean Seabass with Vegetable Ragout in Broth |
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PLEASE NOTE: This page contains step-by step photo directions
for making this wonderful healthy gourmet recipe. Since there are so many
graphics, it may take a bit longer to load for slower modems.
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February
2003 -- Note from Cheri:
Santa Monica's Cézanne has fast become
my new favorite Los Angeles area "special occasion"
restaurant and Cezanne's executive chef, Desi Szonntaugh
my new favorite chef. Hey, Hans
Rockenwagner had a good long run, but there's
a new kid in town and his food really sings. But that's
doing it an injustice. More than singing, the food served
at Cézanne is like a complex harmony of
flavors and textures that, like an especially brilliant
piece of music, lovingly lives and lingers in memory
months, or even years, after the actual experience.
While everything we had at Cézanne was
first rate, absolutley not to be missed are the Seared
Dvier Scallops in a surprisingly spicy Arugula and Caper
Brown Butter and served with Hand Rolled Gnocci and
Clam Shell Mushrooms. Fans of Foie Gras should run,
not walk to Cézanne for Seared Foie Gras
with Persimmon, Cranberry Glaze and Brioche -- it is
heavenly.
One of the best things about my job is that, in order
to share the knowledge with you, I get to spend spend
time in the kitchen with talented people like Chef Desi.
Before coming to Cézanne, Desi was the
Executive Sous Chef at the acclaimed Terrace Restaurant
at Hotel Bel-Air, where he created a menu that earned
the restaurant accolades in the pages of Saveur
magazine.
Photographer Mitch
Mandell and I recently spent the afternoon at
the classically appointed Cézanne, nestled
in the luxurious Le Merigot Hotel on Ocean Avenue, where
Chef Desi demonstrated how to make a light and healthy
Chilean Seabass dish that's layered with a perfect balance
of subtle flavors and tantalizing textures. Get the
recipe and see Chef Desi in action below.
Visit Cezanne!
If you live in or plan on visiting Southern California,
a visit to Cézanne will leave you and
your companion(s) with a truly memorable dinner experience
-- from the rich decor and tableware, to the elegant
live piano background music, to the exquisite cuisine
of Chef Desi Szonntaugh. Cézanne offers
all-day dining with a complete breakfast, lunch and
dinner menu that utilizes the finest ingredients, inspiring
many return visits from locals and travelers alike.
You can find Cézanne in the Le Merigot
Hotel (a JW Marriott Beach Hotel & Spa) at 1740
Ocean Avenue in Santa Monica, California. For more
information or to make reservations call 310-395-9700.
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Recipe Notes:
Those on a strictly low carb diet (or those too lazy to make it) can skip
the cannelli beans and mushrooms. Although the recipe will lose a bit
of its meaty complexity, it's still delicious. Otherwise the beans and
portobellos add a wonderful texture, flavor and nutritional boost to this
recipe. You can also skip the basil oil garnish, but why not make some?
Not only will it give this recipe that extra "gourmet" touch.
It will keep in your refrigerator for about 2 weeks and can be used for
sautéeing or in salad dressings, sauces and marinades.
While our photos show Chef Desi cooking one dinner, you could easily
cook two (or even 4 or 6) portions at the same time, providing you have
a large enough oven proof skillet.
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Marinade:
1-2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/3 cup olive oil
2-3 teaspoons canola oil
2 filets, about 6 oz. each, Chilean Seabass
3-4 cloves peeled garlic
Vegetable Ragout
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 1/2 cups red onion, thinly sliced
2 fresh tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1/3 cup roasted
red or yellow bell peppers, sliced into strips
1/2 cup fresh fennel, thinly sliced
1/3 cup leeks (white bulb part only) sliced into thin
strips
1/2 cup cannellini
beans with mushrooms (click for recipe)
3/4 teaspoon minced garlic
1 cup dry white wine
1 tablespoon fresh basil
chicken stock
Garnish (optional)
a few drops of basil
oil (click for recipe)
microgreens
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Serves 2
From the second we walked into Chef Desi's kitchen, the aroma told
Mitch and I that we were someplace special and good things were
ahead.
If you get all your ingredients for this recipe in place, like
chef Desi (photo 1), this dish goes together amazingly fast, with
fish and vegetable ragout being perfectly cooked at the same time.
1.
Instructions for this recipe:
Preheat oven to 350°F. Thinly slice the white part of the fennel
bulb (you can use the leafy top for a garnish or save for another
purpose), and cut the well-washed white portion of the leek into
thin strips about 1 1/2 to 2 inches long. Heat chicken stock.
Heat an oven-proof skillet over very high heat. Add
a dash of Canola oil and heat until it starts to smoke. Put the
fish filets into the pan and cook to brown or caramelize the fish,
about 2-3 minutes per side. Chef Desi explained that since Chilean
Sea Bass is high in healthy fish oil content, the caramelizing step
will give your fish a nice nutty flavor. You're looking for a nice
light brown color on the fish (photo 2). Place the peeled garlic
cloves in the hot pan and immediately take the fish in the oven-proof
skillet off the stove and place in preheated oven. Roast until fish
is cooked -- about 7-10 minutes. You'll be able to tell because
the flesh of the Seabass will just start to separate into layers
(photo 3).
2.
3. 
While fish is roasting, prepare vegetable ragout.
In another skillet, heat about a tablespoon of olive oil. Add red
onions and sauté for a minute (photo 4) or so before adding
the fennel garlic, leeks, tomato and roasted pepper (photo 5). Add
a cup of white wine, the cannelli
beans and portobellos, season with salt and pepper and cook
vegetables until wine is reduced by half. Add a cup of chicken
stock. Stir to mix and strain off broth into another small sauté
pan (photo 6). Reserve vegetables and keep warm. Stir fresh basil
into the vegetable mixture.
4.
5.
6.
Cook stock over high heat until it is a reduced down
to a glaze. You're going to cook it until it almost gone. Chef Desi
says there is a perfect moment when the stock has reduced to the
perfect degree -- it turns into a caramel brown thick syrup. At
this point, immediately pour the reduced stock glaze over the (by
now) fully cooked fish filets (photo 8).
7.
8.
Mound a pile vegetable ragout in the center of a large
shallow bowl. Top with glazed fish filet. Pour hot chicken stock
into the bowl (photo 9). Garnish with microgreens and dot a few
tiny drops of bright green
basil oil into the chicken broth, as in the finished photo
at the top of the page.
9.
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