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Jayne Cohen's Black Grape, Goat Cheese, and Noodle Latkes with Fragrant Honey
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By Jayne Cohen
Posted December 6th, 2008
Jewish Holiday Cooking: A Food Lovers Treasury of Classics and Improvisations
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Servings: 4
Author Notes: I had wandered several blacks from our Philadelphia hotel.  The December sky was already purple and my toes frozen numb when I found the tiny bakery and hobbled in.  Enveloped by the smells of strong coffee and a dazzling array of freshly baked focaccia.  I immediately felt that all was right with the world.

The fococcia I chose was an unuaul interplay of exhuberent Mediterranean tastes -- rosemary, goat cheese, midnight blue-black grapes and walnuts -- all held in delicate balance by a final drizzle of fragrant honey.

I was so intrigued by the combination of flavors, I wanted to repeat them in another dish.  I was thinking of a noodle pudding, but since it was so close to Hanukkah, I decided to update a traditional noodle latke recipe.

Honey is used here as a seasoning, not merely a sweetener.  For superior results, select a honey with complex, highly aromatic notes: an herbal one such as Greek thyme or rosemary; or musky, slightly bitter chestnut honey.

Delicious and not at all difficult to prepare, these latkes do require a bit of special attention.  Since heat can make cheese soft and runny, work quickly shaping and frying the latkes to ensure that the cheese does not ooze out in the pan.  Or try shaping the latkes, them chilling them again before frying.

Excellent for brunch, lunch, or as part of a dairy meal, these latkes also make a fine conclusion to a light supper.
Ingredients: 4 ounces medium flat egg noodles
2 large eggs
1/4 cup walnuts, lightly toasted and coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 ounces fresh (not aged) goat cheese, chilled
1 cup black grapes (about 7 ounces), seeded and cut into quarters
unsalted butter and mild vegetable oil such as canola or avocado, for frying
fragrant honey
Instructions: Bring 2 to 3 quarts water and 1 teaspoon salt to a rapid boil in a large pot. Add the noodles and cook until just tender but still firm.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, walnuts, rosemary, and salt and pepper to taste.

Drain the cooked noodles thoroughly, let them cool slightly, then combine them well with the egg mixture. Cover the bowl and refrigerate the mixture until cold and firm, about 1 hour. The noodles will have absorbed all the egg.

Cut the cheese into bits and add it to the bowl, together with the grapes. Mix well. Take about 1/3 cup of the mixture, making sure it includes some cheese and grape pieces, and shape it into a patty. Place it on a platter and continue forming patties until you have used up all the batter.

Handle the patties carefully - they will be somewhat fragile. If time permits, refrigerate the patties to firm them up before frying.

In a 10- to 12-inch heavy skillet, heat 2 tablespoons each of butter and oil over high heat until hot but not smoking. Working in batches, add the latkes. Flatten each slightly with a spatula and fry quickly until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Turn carefully, using 2 spatulas or a spatula and a large spoon if necessary, and brown on the other side. Remove to platter. Drizzle some honey on the hot latkes and serve immediately.


 

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