Tart, crunchy, and dripping with juice, fried green tomatoes are rarely considered a breakfast food. But picture a few slices -- coated with golden cornmeal -- on the plate next to your scrambled eggs or tofu, and I think you'll reconsider. They're also a perfect partner for American Potato Cutlets and among my favorite quiche fillings (page 139). Serve these warm, not hot, as the insides of the tomatoes retain a lot of heat and could burn your mouth.

PREPARATION TIME: 5 minutes, plus 20 minutes to cook

1. Core the tomatoes, and thinly slice off the ends. Cut the tomatoes into half- inch-thick slices (you'll get about 3 or 4 slices per tomato) and set aside.

2. Combine the cornmeal and salt on a dinner plate. Mix until uniformly blended.

3. Dredge the tomato slices in the cornmeal mixture, pressing it into the cut surfaces of the tomatoes to create a thick coating.

4. Place a large skillet or sauté pan over medium heat for several minutes. Spray the hot pan with nonstick spray, and melt in a little butter. After a few seconds, tilt the pan to distribute the butter, then add the coated tomatoes.

5. Fry the tomatoes on each side for 8 to 10 minutes, or until crisp and golden. You might need to add a little more butter at some point to keep them from sticking.

6. Remove the tomatoes from the pan, and transfer them to a wire rack over a tray to cool. (This retains their crispy texture.) Wait at least 5 minutes before serving, as the insides of the tomatoes will have become very hot and will need to cool down a little.

7. Serve warm, and pass some coarse salt, a pepper mill, and if you like, some sour cream to spoon on top.