Chef Dario Marquez and Dining at Mistral, Ft. Lauderdale -

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Chef Dario Marquez and Dining at Mistral, Ft. Lauderdale

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By Harold and Nicki Chodnof

Posted August 6th, 2007

FabulousFoods.com Recommends: Oddball Florida: A Guide to Some Really Strange Places (Oddball series), by Jerome Pohlen, (2003, Chicago Review Press)

Oddball Florida: A Guide to Some Really Strange Places (Oddball series)

Helping mom in the kitchen has taken Dario Marquez, executive chef of Mistral, the three-star restaurant in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, far. Marquez remembers his first kitchen chores as helping mom with the seasoning, cooking and going to market -- a nearly daily chore in his native country of Colombia. While in school in Colombia, Marquez started his road to culinary success as a dishwasher.

His formal training began in a pilot program at the Rhode Island School of Design in 1976. Once Marquez' training was complete, he worked with Vincento Donato at the Copley Plaza in Boston, the Biltmore in Providence, Rhode Island, and the Waldorf Astoria in New York City.

Florida called in 1978 when Marquez came to work for Ben Novak, owner of the famed Fountainbleau in Miami Beach, the Sheraton Boca Raton and Bal Harbour Sheraton. When Cajun was the rage, Marquez worked at the Creole Cafe in Carmel, California for two years. In 1983, he headed back to Florida where he worked and opened several restaurants before coming to Mistral.

When it opened in June 1993, Mistral was one of two restaurants that started Fort Lauderdale's beach and restaurant resurrection. Then, there was no sea wall in place and no lovely beachfront promenade. The area was run down, a place that only attracted vagrants. The Elbow Room was the only business around (a bar frequented by students) left over from Fort Lauderdale's wild, spring-break reputation days.

It took several weeks before the restaurant saw any business. In the end, the beach block clean-up, prompted by the city's urban renewal, and two newly-opened restaurants gave locals a reason to come. Once word-of-mouth spread, people came in droves and the restaurant renaissance of South Atlantic Avenue was on.

Marquez says his favorite cooking styles are Mediterranean, Cajun, Creole, French, Oriental, Greek and Indonesia -- flavors and foods that touch much of the world. Marquez terms Mistral's style as sun-drenched cuisine - a fusion of his favorite styles. The menu specializes in locally available ingredients such as fresh seafood and tropical fruits. The kitchen uses natural reduction for its sauces and uses no bases.

His favorite dishes are paella, jambalaya and risottos. Little wonder his signature dish is shrimp risotto paella, and given the choice his last meal would be jambalaya.

Cooking Philosophy: "Aroma, flavor and color must come from foods. Fresh is essential," said Marquez. "Foods should be prepared like in France, delicate and well executed."

Greatest Achievement: Opening so many restaurants and tackling so many cuisines.

Marquez, 49, a father of two, loves to grill on the barbecue at his rare times at home. His favorite spices are Cajun. His own blend consists of cayenne, white and black peppers, mixed with cumin, chili powder, salt and onion powder. Marquez is also partial to poblano, jalapeno and anaheim peppers.

Marquez doesn't limit his risk taking to cuisine. He rides a Harley, scuba dives to 150 feet and sits there for 10 minutes to get away from it all. Lastly, he's learning how to fly.

Mistral 201 South Atlantic Blvd. Fort Lauderdale FL 33316 954/463-4900. Lunch from 11 a.m. Dinner 5 - 11 p.m. Pizza, salad and dessert service until 1 a.m. Sunday brunch 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Live Jazz on Friday and Saturday night.

Award-winning travel journalists Nicki and Harold Chodnoff publish and write the discount-oriented "Value-Season Traveler Newsletter" and the "Cruise Views Cruising Newsletter". Their articles routinely appear in noted publications nationwide including "Better Homes and Gardens", "Disney On-Line" magazine and "Travel Agent Magazine".