Eggplant is actually native to Asia, although most Westerners (particularly Italians) think it is native to the Mediterranean. There are hundreds of varieties, but when I first came to America I was astonished that the only eggplant I could find was either in San Francisco’s North beach, the Italian community, or in Japantown, where they sold the variety I was more familiar with – the long, slender, thin skinned kind. This dish is one I’ve served since the early days on Polk Street. At first, my customers had difficulty with the idea that eggplant could be served cold. Most eggplant recipes at this time were fired and served hot (dripping in oil, I might add). But this spicy version quickly won them over.

To serve the eggplant, I like to line the pieces up on a platter, , drizzle with dressing, and let my guests turn pieces in the extra dressing on the bottom of the platter before transferring them to their plates. You could also first toss the eggplant in a bowl with some of the dressing and then arrange the eggplant on a platter and pour over the remaining dressing (which is how it’s written here). It is important to use Asian eggplant in this dish, either the long, thin, lilac-colored variety or the smaller purple-black ones. Both kinds have tender skin, are less bitter, and have fewer seeds than the globe eggplant Westerners are more familiar with.

Serve 4-6 as part of a Chinese Meal or 2-4 as a Western-style Side Dish

Trim the eggplants. Cut them lengthwise in quarters and then again crosswise in 2 to 3 inch pieces. Fill the bottom of a steamer with water, bring the water to a boil over high heat, and set the eggplant pieces on a steamer tier (they don’t need to be put on a plate first) over boiling water. Cover and steam 4 minutes, or until soft when pressed with a chopstick. Set aside to cool to room temperature.

To Make the Dressing:
Whisk the soy sauce, chili oil, vinegar, ginger, and garlic in a small bowl until combined. To serve, toss the room temperature eggplant in half of the dressing and arrange it on a platter. Pour over the remaining dressing. Garnish with green onion.