Puddings using up leftover bread are usually labeled as "thrifty," a term that probably wouldn't be applied to this rich side dish, which functions very much like a dressing or stuffing, alongside roast chicken or pork. While it indeed contains day-old bread, which we cut into tiny cubes, there is also such an abundance of fresh and dried wild mushrooms, cream, and eggs that it may be considered party fare. We are fortunate enough to know two expert mushroom foragers, the official Jimtown painter, Jim Gromo and his dad, who search for the prized fungi in the Sonoma hills above the store. In good years, if we're lucky, they share their bounty and we head to the kitchen to make this dish.

The recipe and text below were shared with us by the very personable and entertaining Carrie Brown, chef/proprietor of the Jimtown General Store in Healdsburg, California. We met Carrie at the fabulous Ahwahnee Hotel in California's Yosemite National Park, where she was teaching a cooking class as part of the Ahwahnee's Chef's Holiday programs (see travel links below). These fun culinary programs allow you to escape to the beauty of Yosemite, along with some of your favorite chefs, who you'll join for special dinners, receptions and classes.

In a heatproof bowl, combine the porcini and water. Let stand, covered, stirring once or twice until softened, about 20 minutes. With a slotted spoon, lift the mushrooms from the soaking liquid and transfer to a cutting board. Coarsely chop. Let the soaking liquid settle, then pour off the clear portion; discarding the sandy residue. Measure out 1/2 cup of liquid. Reserve the rest for another use.

In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs. whisk in the half-and-half, 2 teaspoons of the salt, the rosemary, and the pepper.

In a medium, heavy skillet over low heat, melt the Butter. Add the shallot and garlic and cook, stirring once or twice, until soft, about 10 minutes. Add the chanterelles, season with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, and cook, covered, until the mushrooms begin to render their juices, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the porcini and cook, covered, for 2 minutes. Uncover, raise the heat to high, add the 1/2 cup mushroom soaking liquid, and cook scraping any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, until all mushroom liquid has evaporated, 3 to 4 minutes.

Spread the cubed bread in an even layer in the prepared dish. Scatter the mushroom mixture evenly over the bread. Scatter the cheese evenly over the mushrooms. Pour the egg mixture evenly over all. Cover the dish with plastic wrap and top it with a smaller dish weighted with something heavy like a can of food (this is to encourage the bread cubes to absorb as much of the custard mixture as possible). Refrigerate for 1 hour.

Remove the weights and the plastic wrap. Bake the pudding until the custard is set and the top is browned, about 45 minutes. Let cool on a rack for 5 minutes. Serve hot.

Notes:

• Like other foraged fare, wild mushrooms are delicious but unpredictable. Be prepared to substitute what you find in your specialty store for the chanterelles. (We like hedgehogs.) Cultivated exotic mushrooms, such as shiitake, oyster, or cremini, can also be used.
  
  
• The tiny size of the bread cubes is important in producing the sophisticated texture of the finished pudding.