Chocolate pudding is always in the refrigerator at Jimtown, the help-yourself portion cups displayed in a flat, brown pottery bowl. Regulars in the throes of a craving have been known to leave their vehicles idling out front of the store while they dash in, grab a cup of pudding, and dash out. We understand: Velvety smooth, dark luscious chocolate-it's the real thing and doesn't resemble anything made from a box. Top the pudding with a dollop of whipped cream, if you're serving it to company, or just with a float of half-and-half, if you're enjoying it alone. We often suggest sharing because it's a nice thing to do.

The recipe and text below were shared with us by the very personable and entertaining Carrie Brown, chef/proprietor of the Jimtown General Store in Healdsburg, California. We met Carrie at the fabulous Ahwahnee Hotel in California's Yosemite National Park, where she was teaching a cooking class as part of the Ahwahnee's Chef's Holiday programs (see travel links below). These fun culinary programs allow you to escape to the beauty of Yosemite, along with some of your favorite chefs, who you'll join for special dinners, receptions and classes.

In a large bowl, thoroughly whisk together the eggs and egg yolks. In a heavy, medium saucepan, stir together the remaining 1/2 cup sugar, the remaining 3 cups half-and-half, and the salt. Set over medium heat and bring just to a simmer. whisk in the cocoa mixture. Bring to a boil, whisking constantly. Lower the heat and cook, whisking constantly, until very thick, about 3 minutes.

Gradually whisk the hot cocoa mixture into the beaten eggs, whisking constantly to ensure that the eggs don't get "scrambly". Return this mixture to the pan and set over low heat. Cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture just reaches an obvious boil. This is important, otherwise, the pudding might not "set" properly. Remove from the heat and immediately add the chocolate chips and butter. Stir until smooth. Stir in the vanilla.

For a smoother texture, if desired, use a rubber scraper to force the pudding through a sieve.

Divide the pudding while warm among 6 to 8 dessert cups or ramekins (or spoon it into a single, medium-sized attractive serving bowl). Cool to room temperature, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until cold, at least 4 hours.

The pudding can be prepared up to 3 days in advance. Serve cold, topped with whipped cream or half-and-half if desired.

Variation:
This recipe will also fill a fully-baked 9-inch pie shell or a graham cracker crust, if chocolate cream pie is on your mind. Cool the pudding slightly, then mound it in the pie shell. Cool completely, cover, and chill well, preferably overnight. Whip 1-1/2 cups heavy cream to stiff peaks. Mound the cream atop the pie, spreading it to the edges, and swirling it into decorative peaks. Cut the pie into wedges and serve very cold.